Slightly sick in Split.

Oh how life can change.  I went to bed last night feeling great and then at 3.30am I woke up feeling like crap.  From then on for the next 15 hours I have been crawling from my bed to the bathroom and back. Pure hell-   Nothing like being ill when you are abroad alone!   God knows what poisoned me, probably a slice of pizza I had from a fast food stall.
So I didnt get to the Island.   I could barey stand up straight  let alone function for two hours on a boat!   I get sea sick even when I am feeling great.
  What a shame.  BUT the good news is I am feeling better this evening and have just been for a Granny stroll around the city and had a coca cola and a yoghurt icecream.  These two bug killing agents have sorted me out a bit but now I just feel so damn dizzy and achy.  What a horrible way to end my trip.  Oh well, at least tomorrow I will be in my own bed and I can have a decent cup of tea to make myself feel better!
I must get back to my incredibly comfortable bed.  Have to be up early tomorrow to pack.

PS Dont worry about me Mum.  I really am feeling much better now.  My flight isnt until 1pm so I have plenty of time to get to the airport in the morning.

Split

I feel like I,m in another world.  Here is wonderful Roman architecture mixed in with graffiti sprayed walls.   Cool and trendy clubbers mixed in with remnants of D list stars of Howard,s Way and young families alongside old, drunk beggers. Yes, a city full of polar opposites.
Mostly though this city feels cool and trendy and very proud of itself.  Almost like it takes itself too seriously. I dont think I have heard any spontaneous laughter since I have been in Split. Even the young are very self possessed.  I,ve been walking high up above Split this evening in a park and all the young people resembled sporting gods!   Croatians are so tall and athletic looking.  Like they are all in training for Wimbledon. ( All similar to Ivan Ivanisivic. )  Not tall and big, just tall and fit (and look like they could run 100 metres in 8 seconds.)
 I didnt have my camera with me this evening so here are some photos from my phone from when I wandered up above the city of Split.

 My evening view as I had a beer.

 Diocleatean,s tower glowing  rather like Oxford does at sunset.

I didnt have my camera because I have been to the beach this afternoon and evening and I just didnt want anything to be nicked whilst I was in the sea.  I found a sandy bay nearby for my afternoon lounge but the bloody weather decided to turn cloudy just for the time I was there.  Oh well I got a swim in amongst the uber cool sporting youths!!

This morning I booked a ticket to the Island of Šholta.  Its under an hour away, which suits me fine and is not really on the tourist scene because there is nothing to do.  Which suits me fine too.  Going to the Lakes is just too stressful and a long journey which I dont want to do so this short day trip to an Island where no one goes because it is boring sounds absolutely perfect for me!   Lets wait and see.

I will just have to come back again to visit these other Islands  and also to visit Rejhana.  She told me I would plan to come back after this visit and Rejhana, you are correct.   (As long as I can visit Saraevo again too!)

Split is interesting though because the port and bus station are in such a prime position in the city.You can watch all the passengers queue to get on the boats to Ancona.  I have never been to such an easily acccessible port before. Its pretty exciting because I love ports. I didnt have my camera with me this afternoon when the Ancona crowd were embarking but I did  this morning when I wandered around the amazing Diocletian palace.

 Shops and houses are integrated into the layout of Diocletians,s summer retreat which he built in Split in the 2nd century.. Obviously it has been rebuilt over the years but lots of it retain its original design and charm.

I just caught Diocletian before he went off for a cigarette  break

The original statue of Jupiter in the temple. Obviously Christians through the years have had to add their bits of symbolism too.

 Jupiter looking tall and athletic. Was he modelled on the locals?

 Ticket seller for the temple of Jupiter right next to a 2,500 year old Sphinx from Egypt.  The sphinx had its head cut off by the early Christians who didnt like the idea of idol worship of objects.  All sounds a bit similar to the Taliban now.

These cellars are the most untouched part of the palace.  They had a real sense of calm about them almost like a church or mosque but without the religious stuff around you.  I suppose that feeling came because you were in just such an historically loaded place.   The roofs are all original and totally amazing.

 Mr.  Diocletian himself.

  

There was an art exhibition in part of the cellars.  I liked it so I took some photos.

Great photo, great concept.  

If this were true though the sporty looking Croation Catholics would whip our arses!

 Puts the star sign of Libra in a different light. Dont know what s-he is  trying to say but I can guess...

Simple but  effective.

Simple but effective.

Location of  the art exhibition.

Here is some funky art in a cafe which I liked.

This is the wonderful market this morning.  It had no end of stuff.  I bought the best nectarines.

Shopping in Split is a bit of a disaster for me.  As you all know I love to shop.  But I am specific and Split does not fulfil my needs...yet!  (Apart from food.) Here everything is either pure TAT or high end labels.  Two extremes with the same outcome...Jane keeps her money in her pocket to spend elsewhere.

Me this morning touching the shiny toe of some rather scary looking guy.  He,s been dead for centuries now but do you really think he would be happy with such a scary and monsterous depiction of himself hanging over his city?  This guy fought for the right for the Croatian language to be used  in religious services. A man of the people.   I  dont know whether he would like this rather bullish depiction of himself.

  Touching his toe though does mean you will come back to Split.   Drinking from the wells in Sarajevo also means you will return.  I will return, that,s for sure. 

Goodbye Sarajevo, hello Split

Considering I have spent 8 hours on a bus today I have had a great day.  I went out early and had my morning coffee with a load of old men in a nearby cafe.   They all spoke German to me and gave me a free second coffee. I wanted to pay really as they only cost about 30p each.

The taxi driver had to go down one way streets to get me to the bus station for 10am. It was touch and go whether I would make it on time due to a traffic accident.  I gave him a big tip for his balls and dare devil driving. He was on a mission to get me to the bus on time!!
 I had been back to my Iranian friend in the health food shop to stock up on provisions for the day.  I now know that my life saving berries, which I love, are called WHITE BERRIES and are only available in Iranian shops.  I will have to find one out and stock up.  No joke I really think they have helped me!

The journey through Bosnia was amazing.  It is such a phonomenally beautiful country.  I couldnt sleep I just kept looking out the window at all times and lapping it up.  These are taken from the bus.

I have never seen such constantly crystal clear waters. Hiking, sailing and swimming around would be an absolute joy. When I had dinner last night I sat and chatted with a German guy who lives in Barcelona.  He,s an environmental campainer for an NGO and he said that Bosnia and Herzegovina is one of the last countries in Europe where all of the fruit and vegetables grown are guaranteed to be organic.  I sure have been eating super healthy stuff!  He was here on a meeting to encourage Bosnians NOT to build a hydro-electric dam on one of their rivers. It would ruin Mostar for a fact.  But environmental causes and tourism are unfortunately not high on the Bosnian agenda.

Yesterday evening I went shopping and shopping and shopping and shopping and chatted to a few market sellers.  No one in Sarajevo is out to fleece you..  If they say something is 10 KM it is 10KM  in all of the stalls. This is such a relaxing experience for me.  I knew what the rules were and I didnt feel stressed. One of the guys in a Bosnian Carpet shop was really interesting.  He told me that the best days of Sarajevo were in the 1984 Winter Olympics. The world was here and everyone was happy. Since then it,s been only troubles. Sarajevo people have such a strong personality and sense of community. This city only survived being squeezed by nationalists because of the strength and spirit of the people, and their love for their great city.  Sarajevoens are a mixed, multi-cultural, tolerant, resourceful, straight forward and educated bunch of people and its only because of this spirit that they could survive for 4 years under such dire circumstances. One of the first things the Serbs did in 1992 was torch the libraries and national archives. They wanted to erase all evidence and knowledge which had ever been recorded in and about this great city and country.

I have my own flat with my own computer...Im going to be writing this for hours.  I wonder if anyone will read it all?  I don,t care. I,m in the centre of Split.  I have some cold beers and I,m blogging.  Yep, Im happy!

Right, back to my journey today.  Just before the border we stopped for some lunch.  here it is!

The wheel was turned by water power I think and the lamb was being successfully spit roasted.  It smelt divine! Tasted good too.

Me and some slowly rolling dead baby sheep.

I got chatting to a couple on the bus who went on their honeymoon to Argentina.  Do you know that in Argentina supermarkets offer 18 months interest free credit for daily shopping needs?   Messed up.  The things you learn on a bus in BiH (This is the short hand for Bosnia and Herzegovina.)

This is the border control into Croatia.

From Monday I think it will look a bit different as this will be the frontier of the EU.  Poor BiH, tradewise things will get even more harsh for them once Croatia is in the European gang.

In Croatia the mountains were not so lush and green, much more shrub like. But the roads, houses and general infrastructure improved ten-fold.  I havent seen one bullet holed house in Croatia, whereas that is the norm in BiH.  Croatia has vision and money and the ability to move on into the modern world.  Honestly, Croatia is such an organised place yet really chilled and relaxed.  Sarajavoans are really respectful of how Croatia has moved on and become a modern and well-functioning society. this is the main advantage of having a single government!

Arrived in Split at 6.  Didnt feel too tired at all.  Got a taxi here and was totally amazed by my little flat.  But when I went out I was even more amazed.  this city is LOVELY and the meal I had this evening I think was my all time favourite of my trip..  Simple food but my GOD, those salted sardines were delicious.As were the prawns and aubergines.  I found out later (via a woman on a stall selling soap)  that I live in one of the best areas of town for great, yet affordable restuarants.

This was a tasty meal!

As for the town.. it was full of life  Mostly Italians over on boats from Ancona and Pescara. The port is right near the centre.  The centre is based around Diocleaten,s Palace and I really thought it was astounding.  The palace is a living and breathing city,  houses and shops are hidden within the confines of this great Roman building.  It sure was impressive and took my breath away.  i wasn,t prepared for such a beautiful back drop to the city life.   To be honest I think I have been transported from the Ottoman and Austro Hungarian empire right into an Italian one!

Diocleatean,s tower with houses nearby.

The central square in the palace. It was buzzing with music, cafes, kids playing and families eating.

 Walls of the palace from the sea front-  they were all lit up green and brown.

Road signs.   It all looks a bit similar to Rome to me!  But hey, this is a  Roman city.  They really have done a great restoration job on this city.

Someone,s backyard in the Roman palace.

So Split has pleasantly surprised me and I,m looking forward to wandering around tomorrow and seeing more.  So time for bed.  I,m tired out now. Ive had enough of writing now and need to sleep plus I am still rocking from 8 hours of swerving along hair pin bends through BiH!   Night.

My flat, which will be home for three nights.  I have a long way to walk from that computer in the corner to that comfortable looking bed.

Still in Sarajevo!

My adventure into 5 star Bosnian cusine was good last night.  Lots of stuffed vegetables (even stuffed onions.)  and cucumber mixed up with sour cream and  great Bosnian salad bread and wine.

This morning I had my morning coffee in a great little place.

Then I went off to buy my bus ticket to go to Split, Croatia.  I got the tram.  Again old as the hills with beautiful...yet graffiti filled wooden seats.  This tram took me into the communist side of the city.  Bloody hell, ugly as sin!!.  I just dont know how anyone can live in such grim blocks of flats.  made even worse looking by the bullet holes all through them.  I didnt take any photos...too depressing.  but this one is good.  There are no plans to reopen the Bosnian National Museum because nobody can agree on how the history should be presented.  Its one of the problems when you have three governments running a country who dont see eye to eye on anything.

 The bus to Split will take 8 HOURS tomorrow.  10am til 6pm.  On the map it looks so close but this is Bosnia and the roads are in bad repair.  I went to buy some new headphones so I can listen to music on my journey .  The  guy in the shop was very helpful and just wanted to chat.  he thinks that there might be a motorway in Bosnia within the next 20 years.

I then went to Svro,s house ( i don,t know where the bloody apostrophe is on this computer. Commas will do!)

It,s an overcast day in these hills today

 Mens section of the house from the 18th century.

I do like a view through a window.

Mixed styles in the house.  Check out the western clock on the far left.   Fusion of East and West.

I LOVE these green heaters which are in every room.  I WANT ONE.  But I think my house is too small and I cant take it back on the plane.

 I do like a view through a door.

This high class family went to toilet through a triangular hole!

 Im in textile and interior design heaven here!
If anyone can find a Serbian Orthodox style rug like this then please buy it for me.

 Womans bedroom in the Ottoman house.

 Top of a box I liked.

 All women had to embroider...nothing else to do.  You had to make a whole wooden chest load of stuff before anyone would marry you.  The stuff wouldnt be used...just kept neatly folded away.

Its pouring with rain outside.  Im staying here until it stops and I have finally worked out how to turn my pictures.

 Here are some interesting pictures related to the start of the first World War.  The 1914 museum is right next to where the Archduke Ferdinand was shot.  For the 100 year anniversary next year I hope it gets some funding and a face lift. It really needs some love and attention!  There really wasnt much there.  I think the problem is that a Serb nationalist started the First World War and the tensions here are obviously still too strong to rejuvenate the place.  The history is raw here when it comes to Serb aggression.
But these are the highlights!!

A high quality stuffed Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophia!

The cups from which they had their last cup of coffee (Taken from the hotel!)

The gun which was used in the assassination which started the First World War.

The bag in which was the gun which was used to start the First World War. ( A nice bag I have to say. He had style.)

The man who was holding the bag in which was the gun with which he killed Franz Ferdinand and his wife.

Right thats it.  Time to go back into the city...still lots to see and it has stopped raining.